Europe By Train: Paris #6: On Foot

The Promenade Plantée is an abandoned railway line transformed into one of the secret parks of Paris, passing over viaducts and through tunnels.  I decided to walk the almost three mile trail from Place de la Bastille to Bois de Vincennes, the enormous park in eastern Paris. There are wonderful high angles on wonderful buildings. … Read more

Europe By Train: Paris #5: Auvers-Sur-Oise: Vincent’s Final Resting Place

One Sunday we took the train to Auvers-sur-Oise, a light-filled riverside village that drew many artists, including Cézanne, Pissarro–and Van Gogh.  Vincent had moved to Auvers from Saint-Rémy to be closer to his brother, Theo, in nearby Paris. Here he spent the last seventy days of his life and painted seventy works of art.  Outside … Read more

Europe By Train: Paris #4: Revisiting Luxembourg Garden and Belleville

The Jardin du Luxembourg has its own corner in my heart. I used to live in Montparnasse and crossed this wondrous space several times a week. Today I would walk my old streets en route to the park. I began in the 14th arrondissement at the grand lion of Denfert-Rochereau, designed by August Bartholdi, creator … Read more

Europe by Train: Paris #3: From High Art to Street Art

Paris is a little bit of everything, from high art to street art. The best way to get to know the city is by wandering her grand boulevards and petites rues, her waterways and cemeteries. Some days I would set a destination, then make my way there via serendipity and whim. Edith Piaf, in Belleville My … Read more

Europe by Train: Paris #2

On our return to Paris, we changed trains at Avignon, the station as modern and vast as Arles is old-fashioned and cozy. We passed villages and farmland, rural France at its most timeless. Arriving at the Gare de Lyon, we couldn’t resist a cocktail at the ravishing Train Bleu. The next day, as part of … Read more