Europe By Train: Paris #5: Auvers-Sur-Oise: Vincent’s Final Resting Place

One Sunday we took the train to Auvers-sur-Oise, a light-filled riverside village that drew many artists, including Cézanne, Pissarro–and Van Gogh. 

Vincent had moved to Auvers from Saint-Rémy to be closer to his brother, Theo, in nearby Paris. Here he spent the last seventy days of his life and painted seventy works of art. 

Outside the tourist center is Zadkine’s statue of Vincent, depicted carrying his easel and paints, en route to the fields to work.

It was Sunday, and the farmers’ market was tempting.

Further down the main street, we came upon the inn where Vincent lived in an upper room.

From the upstairs right window, he painted his view of the town hall.

The past is so alive here. At the end of the next block is a memorial to the fallen in World War II.

Having found a promising place for lunch with a tarte tatin on the menu, we turned back to visit Notre Dame d’Auvers, the 12C church that Vincent painted.

A wedding was taking place. A sweet moment. Life goes on.

Moving around to the front we came upon the angle from which he had painted The Church in Auvers-sur-Oise.

We continued down a country road to the cemetery, where Vincent and Theo were buried.

We tromped around the surrounding fields where Vincent worked. 

Here is the site from which he painted Wheatfields with Crows.

These remain agricultural areas which we are requested to respect. 

Back down the hill we turn for another view of the church.

Crossing the main street, we pass the railroad tracks to the River Oise.

It is time for lunch and we return to town where I am thrilled by the sight of an old Citroen 2 CV, the classic Deux Chevaux.

Lunchtime! At The Vines of Auvers.

We had tarried too long. Sadly, they were out of tarte tatin, but the pizza was grand.

While the husband enjoyed his café, I continued up the road to the house of Dr. Gachet, the physician who treated Vincent here. Dr. Gachet was a sensitive and progressive man, an artist himself, and art collector. The two became friends.

Besides his well-known portrait of the doctor, Vincent also painted The Garden of Dr. Gachet. 

It was a fine day in a fine village, and I wished for another life. This part of town is particularly lovely, old stone houses with lush gardens and views overlooking the valley.

Time to leave. Too soon, we are back at the railway station.
The tunnel to the other side of the tracks is bright and cheery. Art is everywhere in Auvers.

We arrived on a direct train. This time, we connect at Pointoise. 

And before long, we are back at the Gare du Nord, two métro stops from our apartment.

Next stop: More Paris On Foot:

Leave a Comment